Ten years ago, I arrived in Nanjing for the first time, and at the very moment I landed, I might have fallen in love with the city. This weekend serves as a vacation for myself, who hasn’t gone out in a long time, and also as a fulfillment of a "ten-year promise."
Since I bought the tickets last minute, I couldn’t visit the Nanjing Museum (it turns out you need to make a reservation a week in advance). I heard that artifacts that could be considered "treasures" in other museums are piled here like extra bowls in a kitchen, so I’ll have to wait for another opportunity to witness the "grandeur" of the Nanjing Museum.
Southern Dynasty Poets and Guests, Still See the Qinhuai's Green#
Nanjing, the ancient capital of the Six Dynasties (though they were all short-lived regimes), has long been said to be a place of dragon veins and royal aura. Later, the King of Chu or someone buried gold to suppress this royal power, hence the name Jinling. I have been educated in materialism and have always scoffed at feudal superstitions, but when I arrived in Nanjing, I felt an upward "energy."
I began to believe in superstitions.
I came to Nanjing in the autumn ten years ago. At that time, the French sycamores were telling their own history, and a few fallen leaves floated on the Qinhuai River, announcing the arrival of autumn. Strolling through the streets and alleys of Nanjing, I felt the historical sediment and cultural richness of this ancient capital.
In my weekly journal from last August, I found a photo of the Qinhuai River taken with my Lumia. It was 8 AM, and due to renovations in Wuyi Alley, there was no one by the river.
At that time, I was poor (still poor now), and the trendsetters of this era had already started playing "city walk" ten years ago. 1912, Vanguard Bookstore, Xuanwu Lake, Yihe Road, the ancient city wall... all free attractions. I stayed at a homestay near the Qinhuai River, and because I didn’t bring my ID, I was taken to the police station for verification... Every morning, I would go to a regular noodle shop near the homestay for breakfast and was surprised to find "water-boiled pork slices" noodles, which I ordered out of curiosity. That whole bowl of water-boiled pork slices truly stunned me, only 18 yuan, and it felt like déjà vu ordering "water-boiled pork slices"...
Memories from ten years ago are starting to blur...
Still see the Qinhuai's green upon returning.
Finally, I had the chance to return to Nanjing.
I Visit Old Friends at This Gate, Faces and Lantern Flowers Reflecting Red#
Ten years ago, I took the train to the train station, and upon exiting, I was at Xuanwu Lake, which felt very close to anywhere from there, so I chose a hotel near the Qinhuai River. Now, the high-speed train arrives at Nanjing South, and since I’m older and don’t want to carry my bag around, I booked a hotel next to the train station, which is quite expensive.
After a four-and-a-half-hour high-speed train ride, I arrived in Nanjing in the afternoon. After dropping off my luggage at the hotel and adjusting my mood and state, I went out.
I went directly to Laomendong by car. I hadn’t been there last time; Laomendong, as the name suggests, is the east side of the old gate. Actually, I always think of this place as the old east gate, and I always hear it as the old east gate.
In Nanjing, I took five rides in total, and I felt that the drivers here share a common trait: "elegance." It’s not about their driving style, but rather the "elegant" aura they exude while driving. Personally, I find Nanjing's traffic quite chaotic; even the water trucks can run red lights, and there are all sorts of cutting in line, changing lanes across double yellow lines, and getting out of the car in the middle of the road... Perhaps to avoid traffic accidents, the countdown on the traffic lights is larger than a person (some say it’s because there are many trees that block the view, so they make it as big as possible)... Maybe the drivers have seen too much, and even if they curse inside, they wouldn’t say it out loud. If it were a driver from Changsha, they would have rolled down the window and yelled...
A city is like a person; its appearance mainly comes from nature's gifts, while its cultural temperament is mostly accumulated over time.
The Misty Atmosphere of the Six Dynasties, Blue Bricks and Dark Tiles Reflecting Autumn Scars#
As soon as I got off the car, I felt the bustling crowd, noisy and lively. This kind of noise is a sign of prosperity, as if one is in the flourishing of a great era. Although it’s called "Laomendong," to be honest, this street doesn’t feel old enough; it can even be said to be too new (perhaps the west side is older). It can be compared to Chengdu's "Kuanzhai Alley," with at least 80% similarity, and has 15% similarity with Taiping Street.
Laomendong has a delicate classical feel, with many cultural and creative shops, but when I first arrived, I was hungry. All I could think about was food.
As soon as I got off the car, I saw plum blossom cake. I had seen it the day before at the night market in Changsha, and when I approached, I didn’t think of eating it then, but this time I looked at it and still didn’t think of eating it. However, it looked quite nice.
There were many young ladies in Hanfu on the street. I don’t know if it’s because Nanjing has a strong Hanfu trend or if it’s due to the recent lantern festival.
In "Monster Hunter Rise," the rabbit dumplings are a delicious food that hunters must eat before heading out, which can enhance their stamina and endurance limits during a quest.
Enjoy the gentle sweetness of the sugar-filled daifuku! Eating it can relax the body and mind, and various states will be enhanced!
{{< notice notice-tip >}}
Dining Effect: "Stamina +10, Endurance +10, Dumpling Companion Guidance"
Consumption: ￥15
BBQ Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
{{< /notice >}}
Of course, this is just an appetizer. I have long forgotten where that noodle shop from ten years ago is, but before I came, I saw that Nanjing people love to eat rice noodles, and "water-boiled pork rice noodles" are the signature dishes of several old shops. Surprisingly, I randomly ordered the signature dish ten years ago, which shows a bit of a foodie temperament.
I found an old shop (actually the one across from the dumpling place that serves crossing-the-bridge rice noodles) to slurp some noodles. Although it’s an old shop, you still order by scanning a code. The portion was quite large, but not as big as the roadside portion from ten years ago. The texture was very tender, the broth flavorful, and the rice noodles were chewy, with corn and radish inside, making for a rich taste. After eating, I felt warm and tingly all over.
If Changsha's stinky tofu is famous because of Chairman Mao, Nanjing's stinky tofu isn’t that famous; it can only ride on the coattails of the stinky tofu from Lu Xun's "Xianheng Stinky Tofu." This stinky tofu is about the same size as Changsha's, but the texture is vastly different. This stinky tofu has a salty and fragrant taste when eaten without dipping sauce. The outer skin is not as crispy as Hunan-style stinky tofu, while the inside presents a smooth, fresh, and delicate texture.
{{< notice notice-tip >}}
Dining Effect: "Stamina +50, Endurance +50, Cat's Exploration Good Weather"
Consumption: ￥49
BBQ Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
{{< /notice >}}
After finishing the main course, I wandered around. I had seen a very interesting taro mud head on Xiaohongshu, so I decided to get a dessert after the meal.
The seats in this shop were uncomfortable; sitting felt almost like sitting on the ground. I ordered this taro mud soy milk egg tart, a dessert that blends traditional and modern flavors. At first glance, I didn’t even know what it was. The first bite was a fusion of taro and soy milk, with the natural sweetness of taro perfectly blending with the rich soy milk, creating a unique texture. I initially thought it was just taro and soy milk, but when I took a second bite, it turned out to be a smooth egg tart! The crispy tart shell, smooth egg filling (that’s what it should be called, right?), and delicate taro mud swam in my mouth, with distinct layers that melded into one upon entry. It was a very magical texture.
{{< notice notice-tip >}}
Dining Effect: "Calories +100000"
Consumption: ￥13
BBQ Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
{{< /notice >}}
Next, it was time to go shopping and take photos; I couldn’t eat anymore.
Last time I came to Nanjing, I visited Vanguard Bookstore, which is also a well-known bookstore, but looking at the map, it was far from me. Fortunately, Laomendong has a branch.
When life is filled with hardships, one might
Look up to the sky and say: Is this how I want to be?
But people, poetically
Dwell on this land
Souls, strangers on this earth.
I had heard of this restaurant's fame last time I came, but I heard it was both expensive and not tasty, and I pictured the Fire Palace in my mind. However, someone kept painting a picture for me saying they would treat me to eat, and it has been ten years of painting.
Ten Miles of Qinhuai Water Flowing Gently, Song Girls Rowing Under the Hook of the Moon#
After wandering around Laomendong for half the afternoon, I was getting tired, and it was time to change locations. Laomendong is not far from Confucius Temple, which is very convenient; after visiting one, you can walk a few steps to the next attraction.
This time at the Qinhuai River, tourists were everywhere, much livelier than my last visit (who would be there at 8 AM last time). The commercial atmosphere was particularly strong, making it not much different from other ancient streets. Ten years later, the scenery here hasn’t changed much; Wuyi Alley has been renovated, but it seems there are still not many people visiting.
After buying tickets, I heard that there’s a lantern festival in Nanjing recently, and I heard it’s particularly beautiful this year. The plan for the evening was to go see the lantern festival. An unexpected event was that I saw many young ladies in Hanfu, so I decided to rent a Hanfu for photos, and I left my camera at the hotel, resulting in all today’s photos being taken with my phone.
Divine Lanterns and Buddha Fire Spread Across the Sky, Like Scattered Jade Light#
The Lantern Festival is actually the lantern festival of the Lantern Festival, and before the New Year has even passed, I celebrated the Lantern Festival first. Growing up in the countryside, I had never been to a lantern festival; the complex and diverse lanterns and the city filled with fiery trees and silver flowers were also a first for me. Xin Qiji said, "The east wind releases flowers on a thousand trees at night, and blows down stars like rain." The lights were dazzling, and the feeling of transcending time and space was palpable; of course, they might be setting off fireworks, and the fireworks are like star rain, while we could only set off some cyber fireworks.
The shadows of the lanterns sway on the water's surface, the hearts of people are like water, calling for the cold and clear.
The gentle, cool night breeze with a hint of moisture caressed my face. The wind carried the tranquility of the night and the freshness of the water, as if telling the stories of the night. A dreamlike world interwoven with light and shadow, movement and stillness. It is both tranquil and vibrant, both profound and heartwarming. In this world, we can temporarily forget the troubles of the mundane world and immerse ourselves in this unique beauty. At this moment, the water's surface is like a mirror, reflecting everything around. The lights, the stars, and those silent buildings all leave their reflections here. They sway gently in the water, as if dancing a beautiful dance, enchanting and mesmerizing.
Of course, this snow is a filter. The outfit has rabbits, but the headpiece has fox ears? I always see myself as a little rabbit, but in reality, others see me as a little fox.
In the colorful interplay of light and shadow, mysterious and ethereal koi swim gently, like a dream, like a rainbow leaping through the water, softly circling around the gorgeous attire, resembling a flowing painting, the entire scene exudes a tranquil and mysterious atmosphere, as if time stands still at this moment.
Here, these stars twinkle and shine, and there’s a large area of twinkling lights, super beautiful. It feels like walking in the starry sky, each step stepping on starlight, each breath inhaling moonlight, my heart dances with the wind, my body in the clouds, transcending the romance of reality. My thoughts drift with the night, only the starlight and my heart flicker for this scene.
The Lantern Festival ends here; anyway, the lantern festival is beautiful and splendid. As for the proposal, let’s not mention it; the two of us were awkward to death and didn’t want to recall the details. I doubt anyone online wants to hear it either. In fact, from a meaningful perspective, it’s quite romantic; ten years ago, we had our first date in Nanjing, and the idea of proposing in Nanjing was planted then. The ten-year promise has arrived, and proposing under this starlight is quite romantic.
We played until late that day before returning to the hotel, my heavy body fell asleep...
It felt like I had a dream, dreaming of ten years ago...
East Garden Carrying Wine, West Garden Drunk, Picking All the Loquats from a Tree of Gold#
The next day, I got up early and headed straight to Hongshan Zoo, which I had heard many locals recommend. Since I couldn’t go to the museum, I decided to go here. Originally, I got up early to see the koalas being weighed, but I still arrived late; the koalas had already been weighed and started sleeping.
The little koala is so cute. After leaving the koala exhibit, I arrived at the food court. No one cares about how much food there is; everyone is busy buying cultural and creative merchandise.
Speaking of which, the ticket price for Hongshan Zoo is super low, ￥40, even cheaper than yesterday's lantern festival. Not to mention being able to see so many cute animals, I even saw three pandas (in contrast to the giant panda breeding base). However, the animals are well-fed; unlike the little pandas at Beijing Zoo that have to perform tricks for food, the ones at Hongshan Zoo are well taken care of. I think they can sustain the zoo just by selling cultural and creative merchandise.
When I went to the red panda exhibit, two gibbons next door were "arguing," and their voices were particularly amusing.
At the entrance of the amphibian exhibit, there were crocodiles. I originally didn’t want to go in, but it turned out to be like an aquarium inside. However, there were indeed many scary amphibians, like snakes; the crocodiles were just lying there like fakes. As for this catfish, it looks quite silly.
Some catfish have integrated into civilized society; they may seem dull, but they are actually very talkative.
It maintained this posture for at least a minute; perhaps it is the knight of the sun.
"Praise the Sun!"
A perfect product of manual focus, taken on tiptoes.
The capybara, scientifically known as Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris, is the largest living rodent in the world. They have a stable temperament and often share their habitat harmoniously with other animals. They are indeed large, about the size of a wild boar.
{{< detail "NSFW_The scandalous photos of the top influencer have leaked_Open with caution in public" >}}
Anyway, it’s quite speechless; upon seeing you... in front of so many people... well, the scene went quiet.
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I still don’t understand why Dudu is the top influencer at Hongshan Zoo. Although the merchandise is quite cute, seeing the real thing gives a feeling of disappointment.
After wandering around, I was quite tired, and since I got up early in the morning and hadn’t eaten much, I went to a café to drink this hot cocoa, slightly replenishing my energy.
While taking photos of the pandas, my camera was almost out of battery. One panda was sitting in front of me eating bamboo, no more than 2 meters away, and I could even smell the fragrance of the bamboo, which made me hungry (it was already past noon, and I was a bit hungry).
After watching the pandas, I was tired, and my camera ran out of battery. I quickly walked through to see the tigers and bears, and I was already exhausted. I planned to conclude my visit to Hongshan Zoo, but before leaving, I went to check the koala exhibit again. At this time, the little koalas started to move, and the active dumplings were really cute.
It looks like a villain from some animation, but I can’t remember which one.
Blue Stone Streets and Alleys Welcoming Guests from All Directions, Dark Tiles and Flying Eaves with Different Shops#
Since it was still early, but I was already exhausted (and hungry), I planned to wander around Laomendong again to find something to eat (and take a portion of taro mud head home). Since I was very tired, I didn’t take many photos.
I randomly wandered out of Laomendong and saw a very lively old shop. This shop uses firewood for cooking, and in the cold winter, the aroma of firewood wafted in, a scent that seemed to dispel the chill and bring peace to the heart.
The aroma of firewood is actually a complex scent. It consists of many components, the main one being the smoke produced by burning wood. Additionally, the aroma of firewood is mixed with other scents, such as the fragrance of wood and herbal notes.
This scent is not just a sensory enjoyment; it is also a spiritual solace. Encountering such a shop amidst the bustling Laomendong, I decided to give it a try.
The red bean yuanxiao looks rather unremarkable, with small yuanxiao floating in rich soup, like little pearls (forgive my poor imagination). Served steaming hot, I pretended to blow on it, and the steam swirled around. The cooked yuanxiao has a semi-transparent texture, chewy and smooth; the red beans, after being boiled, also become sweet and delicious, melting in the mouth with a gentle bite. One bite combines the sweetness of red beans with the softness of yuanxiao, as if performing a sweet dance in the mouth.
Next comes the main event, "Big Meat Noodles."
Big meat noodles, a dish that sounds simple. Those who know me well know that I usually don’t like this kind of noodles; I usually prefer rice noodles. However, when that steaming bowl of big meat noodles was placed in front of me, a rich aroma immediately filled the air, stimulating my olfactory nerves and making my mouth water.
The noodles, as the main component of big meat noodles, carry the foundational taste of this dish. The texture of the noodles is chewy and smooth, cooked just right, neither overly soft nor lacking in elasticity. When it enters the mouth, the noodles dance on the tongue, smooth and with a good bite, paired with the special broth, adding a layer of deliciousness that makes the flavor of the noodles rich and unforgettable.
The big meat in the big meat noodles is the highlight. After a long time of stewing, the meat is tender, with a bright red color and a mix of fat and lean. One bite releases the richness of the meat intertwined with the freshness of the broth, bursting in the mouth. At the same time, the fragrant meat aroma resonates with the wheat aroma of the noodles, making it irresistible.
I drank all the broth and exclaimed in delight!
Out of respect for the chef, I peeked into the kitchen.
Under the bright lights of the kitchen, this elderly man in a red-gray apron is clearly the creator of the big meat noodles. The traces of time on his face seem to tell the history of this old shop, and his calm demeanor and kind eyes, along with his ordinary actions, reveal an indescribable elegance and strength.
I greeted him and shyly ran away.
Floating Fragrance Carries Deep Affection, Jade Rabbit and Smoke and Haze Craftsmanship#
I don’t know how to conclude; returning to daily life gives a sense of dislocation, as if these two days were a dream.
In fact, if we set aside personal feelings, looking at Nanjing from a city perspective, it’s not much different from other cities. For me, it’s like the cities described in "Invisible Cities," where the close connection between the city and human life is evident; every city is actually quite similar yet completely different.
Nanjing is complex, diverse, upward, pluralistic, inclusive, elegant, and vibrant.